The state Assam rich in the tradition of manufacturing gold jewellery dates back to several centuries. The jewellery is typically hand-made, and the designs mostly depict floral and fauna treasures of the region. Traditional designs of Assamese jewellery are simple but decorated with vibrant red gemstone, ruby or mina. Black, red and green colors on gold jewelry are looking very gorgeous and these colors also dominate the traditional dresses of tribes and communities of the northeastern states. Assamese ornaments are one of the most important parts of Assamese culture. It is generally made of pure gold. From the historical point of view, this gold was locally available flowing down with the water of several Himalayan rivers, of which Subansiri is the most important. In fact, a particular tribe of people, the “Sonowal Kachari” were engaged only for gold washing in these rivers. Gold washing and manufacture of jewelry were two important ancient industries in Assam and gold were abundantly found in the sands of different rivers of the state. During the rule of Ahom kings, gold washing was done on an elaborate scale and the state derived considerable income from it.
In manufacturing Assamese jewellery large quantity of gold was used in making ornaments. F.C Henniker in his monograph on gold and silver wares of Assam mentioned that Assamese jewelry is by no means without merit. No doubt it is very crude and precious stones are useful and very well cut. But it is quaint and characteristics. The Assamese goldsmiths are not satisfied with 14 carats or even 18-carat gold and many of them Assamese ornaments have occupied a precious position among the good collection of Indian wares. The ornaments are very much beautiful to look at and are a very prestigious part of Assamese culture. These were used by both Assamese men and women during the Ahom period.
female put a bracelets made of either gold or silver on the wrists of their hands is known as Gam-Kharu. Most of
the neck ornaments (Hara) are made of Beads. The necklace with bigger beads called Matamani and larger bead
with drum shaped ornaments are called as Madal. Ornaments which are put on arm are called as Baju or
Kankan. Ornaments put on the ankle joints of the feet are called Nupur.The rings put on the toes of the feet are
called Ujanti. The ornament put on the nose by women is called Nakphul. An ornament which is used by women
on their forehead just below the parting of the hair is called Citipoti.
Ornaments which are used as a necklace include- Jonbiri, Dholbiri, Silikha madali, Gejera, Bana,
Kathal kuhia madali, Dugdugi, Sonar har, Galpata, Galakantha, Chandrahar, Rupadhar, Gajamati har etc.
Several types of ear ornaments are used which include Lokapara, Langkeru, Thuria, Dighal Keru,
Bakharna Keru, Uka Keru, Titakaria keru, Jangphai keru, Karnaphul etc.
Different kinds of Angathi includes- Jethineguri Angathi, Patia Angathi, Babari phulia Angathi etc.
Methods Of Preparation Of Assamese Jewellery
For preparing Assamese jewellery craftsmen are generally found to use manual method. These are very
prestigious traditional ornaments of Assamese people and are mainly prepared by “Sonari” group of people of
Assamese community. In the formation of this ornaments gold and silver both metal are generally used.
In case of gold metal 99% pure gold (24 carets) is generally used. For using pure gold these ornaments
are generally known as “Kecha Sonar Gahana” or pat Sonar Gahana.
Here in the preparation process gold is generally through the help of machine to smoother up. After
smoothing the gold, it is cut into required sizes and packing by white paper. After packing the pieces of gold,
they are hited by the haturi and other two different types of small instruments used by the goldsmith. Then the
pieces of smooth and fine plates of gold will be ready to use in the preparation of ornaments.
In case of silver metal, three different types of elements are mainly prepared by silver, such “Tar”,
„vissile‟, and „pat‟ which are the most important elements for the formation of Assamese jewellery. Without
these three important elements, the Assamese jewellery cannot be made. From these three elements of silver,
two must be used in the formation of ornaments. For joining these three elements to form a particular design,
„pine‟ is generally used. „Pine‟ is a strong quality of paste which is formed the mixture of silver, tam and bronze.
To enhance the quality and beauty of these Assamese jewellery items, here special colour is used which
is generally known as „Mina‟. Besides these some different types of colorful stones are also used here. After
pasting or using the stone and „Mina‟ through „Nuoni‟ and Kanchani, the pure gold is generally used outside the
„stone‟ or „Mina‟.
Some different types of colorful small size balls beads which are generally known as „Moni‟ are also
used in the Assamese jewellery items. According to size, colour and quality of the balls they are known as
„Bakharua moni‟, „Balmoni‟, Desimoni‟ etc. Here a very small plastic thread is used to stitch the balls and
prepare the necklace.
Different types of instruments using in the preparation of the Assamese jeweler
Haturi Bhati
Niary Daish
Phali Karsani
Kati Nuoni
Lap Thina
Bakhor Lamp of candle
Flame of fire
In manufacturing Assamese jewellery large quantity of gold was used in making ornaments. F.C Henniker in his monograph on gold and silver wares of Assam mentioned that Assamese jewelry is by no means without merit. No doubt it is very crude and precious stones are useful and very well cut. But it is quaint and characteristics. The Assamese goldsmiths are not satisfied with 14 carats or even 18-carat gold and many of them Assamese ornaments have occupied a precious position among the good collection of Indian wares. The ornaments are very much beautiful to look at and are a very prestigious part of Assamese culture. These were used by both Assamese men and women during the Ahom period.
Uses Of Assamese Jewellery
Both Assamese men and women used to wear Assamese ornaments in different parts of their body. Thefemale put a bracelets made of either gold or silver on the wrists of their hands is known as Gam-Kharu. Most of
the neck ornaments (Hara) are made of Beads. The necklace with bigger beads called Matamani and larger bead
with drum shaped ornaments are called as Madal. Ornaments which are put on arm are called as Baju or
Kankan. Ornaments put on the ankle joints of the feet are called Nupur.The rings put on the toes of the feet are
called Ujanti. The ornament put on the nose by women is called Nakphul. An ornament which is used by women
on their forehead just below the parting of the hair is called Citipoti.
Ornaments which are used as a necklace include- Jonbiri, Dholbiri, Silikha madali, Gejera, Bana,
Kathal kuhia madali, Dugdugi, Sonar har, Galpata, Galakantha, Chandrahar, Rupadhar, Gajamati har etc.
Several types of ear ornaments are used which include Lokapara, Langkeru, Thuria, Dighal Keru,
Bakharna Keru, Uka Keru, Titakaria keru, Jangphai keru, Karnaphul etc.
Different kinds of Angathi includes- Jethineguri Angathi, Patia Angathi, Babari phulia Angathi etc.
Methods Of Preparation Of Assamese Jewellery
For preparing Assamese jewellery craftsmen are generally found to use manual method. These are very
prestigious traditional ornaments of Assamese people and are mainly prepared by “Sonari” group of people of
Assamese community. In the formation of this ornaments gold and silver both metal are generally used.
In case of gold metal 99% pure gold (24 carets) is generally used. For using pure gold these ornaments
are generally known as “Kecha Sonar Gahana” or pat Sonar Gahana.
Here in the preparation process gold is generally through the help of machine to smoother up. After
smoothing the gold, it is cut into required sizes and packing by white paper. After packing the pieces of gold,
they are hited by the haturi and other two different types of small instruments used by the goldsmith. Then the
pieces of smooth and fine plates of gold will be ready to use in the preparation of ornaments.
In case of silver metal, three different types of elements are mainly prepared by silver, such “Tar”,
„vissile‟, and „pat‟ which are the most important elements for the formation of Assamese jewellery. Without
these three important elements, the Assamese jewellery cannot be made. From these three elements of silver,
two must be used in the formation of ornaments. For joining these three elements to form a particular design,
„pine‟ is generally used. „Pine‟ is a strong quality of paste which is formed the mixture of silver, tam and bronze.
To enhance the quality and beauty of these Assamese jewellery items, here special colour is used which
is generally known as „Mina‟. Besides these some different types of colorful stones are also used here. After
pasting or using the stone and „Mina‟ through „Nuoni‟ and Kanchani, the pure gold is generally used outside the
„stone‟ or „Mina‟.
Some different types of colorful small size balls beads which are generally known as „Moni‟ are also
used in the Assamese jewellery items. According to size, colour and quality of the balls they are known as
„Bakharua moni‟, „Balmoni‟, Desimoni‟ etc. Here a very small plastic thread is used to stitch the balls and
prepare the necklace.
Different types of instruments using in the preparation of the Assamese jeweler
Haturi Bhati
Niary Daish
Phali Karsani
Kati Nuoni
Lap Thina
Bakhor Lamp of candle
Flame of fire
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